INTRODUCTION:

Beauty is divine gift to human beings. Its value has been recognized and appreciated since time immemorial and efforts were made to preserve and promote beauty in all aspects. A person usually gets respect by virtue of his knowledge by physical appearance by speech by costume and by wealth. It is a subject of Socio-medical importance, which has been accepted since time immemorial. Along with increased demand of beautification, the problems are also increasing which cause damage to Beauty or Personality due to changed life style and polluted atmosphere. The concept of beauty and cosmetics is as old as human civilization. In Ayurveda the concept of beauty has an age old origin. According to Ayurveda healthy skin is a result of overall health condition of individuals and prescribes numerous skin care treatment that needs to be pursued at every stage of life.

As per high demand and need of society, the field of cosmetology is developing at a rapid rate. Ayurveda is an ancient science of indigenous medicine, which is special in respect that, it is not only a medical science but is an art of living in human beings. There is a great demand of Ayurveda in the field of cosmetology due to its unique concept about Beauty and its effective, cheaper and long lasting Beauty therapy without any side effect.

Directive 93/35/EEC, the Sixth Amendment to the original Cosmetic Directive of 1976, incorporates the following definition of a cosmetic product: “A cosmetic product shall mean any substance or mixture intended to be placed in contact with the various external parts of the human body (epidermis, hair system, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance and/or correcting body odours and/or protecting them or keeping them in good condition”.

History of Indian Cosmetics

A lot of evidences in the history are available showing the special attention paid towards the Beauty. Various paintings, carvings, cave paintings etc. at different places sufficiently support the above statement. The ancient source of existing knowledge i.e. Veda along with Purana, Ramayana, Mahabharata, Brihat Samhita, Vatsyayana Kamsutra etc. are also having a great contribution in this field.

Some specimens like ‘Shilajitu’, Kajala’ and ‘Mirrors’ found in the Mahenjodaro and Harrapa culture indicate that the aesthetic sense prevailed in that period.

In ‘Rigveda’ description of the Lepa (local application) of certain herbs and in ‘Atharvaveda’ many mantras highlight the significance of improving the Varna, the Kesha, the Intellect, the Lusture and the Glaring appearance of the body are found.

In ‘Garuda purana’various beautifying yoga are mentioned. Description of Beauty for male and female body organs is also given separately in it¹.

The two great epics ‘Ramayana’ and ‘Mahabharata’ give ample description about Beauty of important personalities like ‘Ramachandra’, ‘Sita’, ‘Nakula’, ‘Sahdeva’ etc. In the ‘Anushasan Parva of Mahabharata for acquiring Beauty and popularity, one has to be doing Chandrayana Vrata in ‘Magasirsha Masa’ has been mentioned. Narration of the bride ‘Draupadi’ during the time of ‘Swayamvara’ and her role as ‘Sairandhri’ or an aesthetician is another example outlaying the extent of cosmetic sense which existed in that period.

The Ayurvedic texts are also lagging behind in this direction. The oriental medical experts have stressed upon good looking personality (external appearance) of the ‘Physician’, ‘Attendants’ and the ‘Patients’. Various terms like Sumukha, Sudarshana, Subhaga etc. have been used in Ayurveda² and their relation has been established with the types of Prakriti, Sara, Samhanana, Pramana etc. Moreover, the description of Dinacharya and Ritucharya also indicates the cosmetic sense of that period. The description of dietary regimens and Pathya-Apathya is also one of the important factors which are considered for enhancement of Beauty. The unique concept of Ayurveda like Vyayama, Abhyanga (Massage), different types of Snana etc. are the best indicators of value of Cosmetology during that period. Moreover, the concept of Rasayana therapy highly suggests the importance of Yuvavastha in which person wants to look more attractive. Though Ayurveda considers the importance of Beauty irrespective of age or sex, it has been given equal importance to health along with Beauty. Only healthy body and mind fulfils criteria of a beautiful person.

Maharshi Charaka has grouped different herbs according to their effects such as Varnya, Keshya, Vayasthapana etc. which add to the Beauty of an individual³. Many hygienic performances like Abhyanga, Snana, Lepa etc. are stated to have beautification of the physique and the psyche also⁴.

The ‘22 Upkramas’ explained under the heading of ‘Vaikritapaham’ as Alepana, Pariseka, Utsadana, Pandukarma, Roma sanjanana etc.⁵ indicate the cosmetic approach in Sushruta Samhita. Elaborate discriptiopn of ‘Kshudra Rogas’⁶ which are fundamentally related to Cosmetic science also support aesthetic sense of that period. Moreover, Sushruta was the first person who established ‘Plastic Surgery’ like ‘Auroplasty’ and ‘Rhinoplasty’⁷.

In ‘Astanga Samgraha’ and ‘Astanga Hridaya’ two groups of herbs labelled as ‘Rodhradigana’ and ‘Eladigana’ are characterized as the ‘Varnya group’. Both the Acharyas have also described ‘Mukha Lepa’, ‘Mukha Lepa Varjya’ and ‘Samyak Prokta Mukha Lepa Laksana’. In ‘Astanga Hridaya’ Acharya Vagbhata has mentioned six prescriptions of Mukha Lepa according to ‘Ritu Bheda’ (season)⁸.

During the Mughal rule the cosmetic science got more importance. This is evident from the references available in the texts like Sarangdhara, Bhavapraksha, Yogaratnakara etc.

Concept of Cosmetology in Ayurveda

The Cosmetic approach in Ayurveda is related to the healthy status of the body as well as mind⁹. The description available in Ayurvedic texts in context of Cosmetology in general and healthy personalities can be mainly categorized into three divisions as –

(1) Factors determining Beauty.

(2) Factors contributing towards Beauty.

(3) Factors improving Beauty.

(1) Factors determining Beauty

Some of the factors are described in Ayurveda, which play keen role in the determination of beauty of a person: viz a)Prakriti, b)Sara, c)Samhanana, d)Varna, e)Prabha f)Chhaya, g)Pramana of various Angavayavas determines the organic Beauty and h)Dirghayu Lakshanas described in texts give the aesthetic sense and fundamental base of Personality and Beauty.

From the Ayurvedic point of view Prakriti is inherent constitutional factor influencing the Beauty of a person. Vagbhata has described different Prakrutis on the basis of facial appearances, especially of eyes¹⁰.

The anatomical consideration of organs like eye, skin, teeth, nail etc. along with Svara, Varna etc. are given prime importance¹¹while describing the eight saras. Maharshi Charaka has mentioned that the skin of the Tvaksara Purusha is Snigdha (lusterous), Shlakshana (silky touch), Komala (soft), Prasanna (attractive), Sukshma (thin) and Prabhayukta (shiny)¹².

While describing Swastha purusha Lakshanas Maharshi Charaka said that a person having Sama Samhanana, Sama Mamsa, ample power, strength of the sense organs remain unaffected by the diseases¹³. It shows importance of health in the individual Personality.

The measurements of individual organs of a healthy person have been given in the Ayurvedic texts in context to Pramana Pariksha of a person¹⁴. Apart from the metrical assessment, the individual organ’s shape and contours are also found to be preferred in the texts of Ayurveda. Kashyapa and Charaka have described the personality and longevity of the person as per different anatomical characters e.g. hair, skin, head, ears, eyes, eyebrows, nose, mouth, lips, neck, chest hands, axilla etc. according to their different shapes and contours.

In Ayurveda the word ‘Varna’ is used for both the colour and complexion. Complexion and radiance of the skin can be maintained or increased by taking proper care as protection from excess sunlight, frequent cleaning etc. A soft good healthy skin gives glowing appearance and a radiant complexion. The total health of the skin is reported by its texture, colour, tone, luster, complexion etc. Complexion is the normal appearance of the skin on a person’s face, especially its colour or quality. Texture is the quality of something that can be decided by touch. It reveals degree of which something is rough or smooth; soft or hard. Luster means too much shiny. According to Maharshi Charaka four colours viz. Krishna, Shyama, Shyamavadata and Avadata are considered as normal colour of the body. Nila, Shyama, Tamra, Harita and Shukla are Vikruta varna of the body¹⁵. External factors viz. Genetic factors (Desha, Kula, jati), Shukra and Ahara- vihara and Internal factors viz. Mahabhoota, Dosha and Dhatu are responsible for creation of colour and complexion in child.

(2) Factors contributing towards Beauty

1. Dosha, Dhatu in their normal functioning status contribute to maintain the Beauty.

2. ‘Agni’ in equilibrium state, by digestion and metabolism produces Bala, Varna, Ojas, Dhi, Dhriti, Smriti etc.

3.Similarly Matrijadi Shad Bhavas and Panchamahabhautic combinations contribute in creating inherent Beauty.

4. Age, Sex, Religion, Race and anthropology also have considerable impact upon the Beauty.

All the dhatus in their excellency (dhatu sarata) are responsible for the maintenance of beauty of a person. Correct selection of diet and proper digestion determines the health of all the dhatus, which increases beauty of a person. Further, the elimination of wastes which is important to health and Beauty of the body as the nourishment it receives. Agni also has specific role in the contribution of beauty of a person viz. It has the power to digest food well, making all nutrients available to the tissues. It powers the mind to be intelligently disciplined to achieve inner Beauty. Collectively the Panchamahabhootas take part in the formation of body organs during Garbhavastha¹⁶ and is also responsible for Varnotpoatti¹⁷.

(3) Factors Improving Beauty

Ayurveda elaborates description of adjuvants like –

1. Dinacharya

2. Ritucharya

3. Achara Rasayana

4. Various methods in the form of internal medicines like Mahakashaya

5. Surgical treatment like Plastic surgery, Vaikritapaham

6. Diet as Hitatama, Matravat, Sadapathya dravyas

7. Medicines like Rasayana, Ghrita, Taila etc are available.

Role of Dinacharya :

As Cosmetic approach of the Ayurveda is related to healthy status of the body and mind, the Beauty and health both are given equally importance in Ayurveda. Therefore, in the texts of Ayurveda all the remedies prescribed or described are for the both perspective health as well as Beauty. For that in daily routine some procedures are included which keep the person fit or healthy and young for a long time. The procedures also increase Beauty of hair, skin, eyes etc. which are the organs having a great cosmetic Value. They delay the old age too. In ‘Dinacharya’ following procedures are included¹⁸ (table-1).

Role of Ritucharya :

The description of ‘Ritucharya’ is also given in almost all the Ayurvedic texts for the purpose of maintaining the health as well as Beauty. In context to Cosmetic aspect some references can be found viz.:

In cold season (Hemanta and Sishira) the local application of Agaru paste is described to protect the skin against excessive cold. During Sishira one should avoid pungent, bitter, astringent, light, cold and Vata increasing foods and drinks¹⁹. During Spring one should use paste of Sandal and Agaru on the body and diet mainly consisting of barley and wheat²⁰.

In particular summer season the Sun, with his rays, draws up excessively the moisture of the nature hence, in that season sweet, cold, liquid and fatty foods and drinks are beneficial²¹. One should take sleep in cool room during day and on the top of the mansion with abundant air and cooled with moon rays during night, having pasted Sandal on one body. One adorned with pearls and gems. During summer, one should resort to forests, cold water and flowers ²².

In this way, the Aahara and Vihara mentioned for the protection from excessive cold and heat during that season show carefulness and awareness about Beauty and health.

Table.-1:

· Anjana Karma	:	For vision of the eyes.
· Dhoompana	:	Increases strength of hair, skull, sense organs and voice.
· Nasya	:	Face becomes cheerful and well developed, old age will be delayed.
· Dantadhavana	:	For the health and Beauty of the teeth.
· Taila Gandusha	:	Strength of Jaws, Development of face, prevents lip cracking, strengthen the teeth.
· Shiro Abhyanga	:	Prevent alopecia, graying of hair, hair fall. Hair become firm rooted, long and black. Sense organs become cheerful. Face with pleasant glow.
· Abhyanga	:	Body becomes firm, smooth skinned, charming and least affected by old age.
· Pada Abhyanga	:	Health and Beauty of foot and sole.
· Udvartana	:	Remove foul smell, dirt etc. of body.
· Snana	:	Good promoter of Ojas.
· Wearing clean clothes and ornaments	:	Enhance charms, prosperity and produces happiness.
· Cutting of hair, beard moustache, nail etc. along with hair dressing are nutritive and promoter of life’s beautification.
· There is also an indication about use of umbrella alleviates natural calamities, guards against the sun, wind, dust and rains.

Aachara Rasayana

Ayurveda’s complete Beauty aspect includes physical, mental and spiritual well being. Acharya Charaka has mentioned that one who follows the code of conduct for the health lives a life of hundred years without any abnormalities. Such person, praised by the noble ones, fills up the human world with his fame, acquires virtues and wealth, and earns friendship of all living beings²³. Thus in consideration to social aspect Aachara Rasayana is more useful and necessary to Personality development. to clean excretory passages and feet frequently, cutting of hair, saving and nail cutting should be done thrice a fortnights, one should always wear untorn clothes, use flowers and fragrance, dress should be gentle and style of hair is commonly practiced²⁴.

Description of Varnya Mahakashaya

Acharya Charaka has mentioned Varnya Dashemani²⁵. Chandana, Punnaga, Padmaka, Ushira, Madhuka, Manjishtha, Sariva, Payasya, Sita, Lata - these ten drugs are considered as complexion promoters. To put the Varnya drugs with the list of other groups of drugs indicate the importance of Cosmetology during that period.

The Importance of Diet for Beauty

According to Ayurveda it is the perfect digestion and assimilation of our food together with the regular and efficient evaluation of wastes that is essential for a strong, well-balanced and beautiful being. Together they are responsible for producing clear skin, bright eyes, glossy hair, strong nails, stamina, clarity and a gentle compassionate nature.

The attention given to treat people as individuals is one of the greatest gifts of the Ayurvedic approach to health and Beauty. This is particularly evident in the selection of one’s optimum diet. Rather than approaching diet from the standpoint of calories or particular nutrients in foods as is done in the west, as Ayurvedic diet is based more on the intuitive sense of what is attractive to the individual by colour, smell, temperature, taste and texture, trusting that when the body is imbalance, it will be attracted to foods by its own innate intelligence.

The Role of Exercise

Regular exercise is essential for health and vibrant Beauty because it helps clear the channels of the body so that the entire tissues can thoroughly cleansed via sweat and other elementary channels and be well supplied with nutrients. Exercise is especially helpful for the skin because in order for the skin to renew itself and be fresh and clear, it needs to be cleared wastes. Exercise also strengths the body’s musculature and keeps it firm and shapely.

On a mental / emotional level, exercise helps to reduce tension, reduces anxiety and promotes a sense of overall well being. It also helps one to get deep, restful sleep. As a rule, exercise only to half of your capacity. Exercise less when intentionally hot or inversely cold to save your energy. Try to breathe evenly when one exercise. This strengths the lungs and digestive organs, hence improves the colour and texture of skin enormously. Never exercise when one have respiratory disorders, inflammation anywhere in the body or indigestion.

Rasayana Therapy

Rasayana therapy is also unique concept of Ayurveda. It is highly indicative of higher Cosmetic sense of the Acharyas. By the invention of Rasayana therapy they tried to keep the person younger and attractive till the old age. They also tried for making the person younger again after he developed the changes of old age. Thus Rasayana therapy is very much useful to maintain Yuvavastha, delay the changes of Vridhdhavastha and cure the changes of older age.

NEED FOR THE DEVELOPMENT OF COSMETICS IN AYURVEDA

Maintenance of a healthy life by one’s own right action is called Swasthaviritta, which literally means the regime of abiding one’s own nature. Health is the dynamic integration between our environment, body, mind and spirit. Ayurveda, the Science of Life lays great emphasis on preservation and promotion of health thereby preventing the diseases. Elaborate description is available on personal hygiene which includes diet and regimen during daily routine (Dincharya), seasonal routine (Rutucharya) and behavioral and ethical principles (Sadvritta), Observance of certain rules regarding suppressible and non-suppressible urges also paves way towards positive health.

Cosmetology is one of the major emerging branches gained attention of researchers, industry and general public globally. Presently the cosmetics have become part of life. The synthetic cosmetics can cause adverse reactions like skin and mucous membranes irritation, allergies, photo irritation, and photo allergy including systemic effects, hence the importance of herbal Cosmetology become highlighted. During the last decade, use of traditional medicine has expanded globally and has gained popularity. It has not only continued to be used for primary health care of the poor in developing countries, but has also been used in countries where conventional medicine is predominant in the national health-care-system.

SCOPE OF RESEARCH ON COSMETICS IN AYURVEDA

Ayurveda being the science of life has successfully dealt with the cosmetic science in detail in view of its preventive as well as promotive aspects of beauty and curative aspects of any ailment related to beauty. The Ayurvedic Cosmetics described in the Ayurvedic texts are not mere cosmetics but they are Cosmo-therapeutics. Rasayana tantra is one among the eight major branches of Ayurveda, which also deals with various aspects of cosmetology. The unique Rasayana approach provides single herbal, compound herbal and herbomineral preparations, which are used to improve the beauty, delay the changes occurring in the body due to advancement of age and also premature changes affecting the beauty. The Ayurvedic cosmetics range from oral health promoters, hair care preparations, and dental care preparations to bath products/deodorants-etc which needs to be standardized and also require safety studies, systematic clinical studies for their validation and global acceptance.

Hair Care Preparations viz. Paste, Hair Fixers, Hair Oil and Shampoo, which are useful as Hair generator, Anti dandruff, Conditioner, Colorants and Check hair falling. Some of the hair care preparations mentioned in the Ayurvedic texts are Japakusum lepa, Bhrangadi lepa, Madhukadi lepa, Kumari Amalaki Ghana-lepa, Nilabhrangadi tailam, Arishtaka kumari lepa, Gunja tailam, etc.

Oral Health Promotors viz. Decoction/Lotion, Chewables, Candies etc. which are useful as Mouth wash for maintaining oral hygiene, Mouth rinses, therapeutic wash for mouth diseases and Breath fresheners. The preparations for Oral Health Promotors viz. Mukhadhavana yoga, Hingvadi yoga, Kusthadi yoga, Khadiradi vati, Trijataka vati etc.

In Ayurveda Dental powder and Dental cream/paste are mentioned as dental care preparations, viz. Kanadya churna, Kasisadi churnam etc. which are useful as oral antiseptic, anti plaque, anti tarter, mouth freshener and astringent – gum protector. Pedicare preparations viz. Siktha tailam and Snuhi tailam are mentioned as Paste/Cream/Lotions and are useful for foot cracks. Bath Products/Deodorants which are useful for Anti wrinkle and Oleation of body, Mood elevator/freshening viz. Basil etc. are also described in Ayurveda. Paste/cream and oil e.g. Ashwagandhadi tailam, Vachadi tailam are described as Breast developer for under developed breast. Paste/oil/cream viz. Kadalyadi lepa, Haritaladi lepa are described which are useful to remove unwanted hair. In Clinical study the action of such preparations is found very weak. All such products are needed to be standardized and also require safety studies, systematic clinical studies for their validation and global acceptance.

CONCLUSION:

Beauty is considered as a divine gift and in Indian civilization and is equated to divine qualities like reality and piousness. In India, the tradition of cosmetics is age old. Cosmetology is one of the major emerging branches gained attention of researchers, industry and general public globally. The synthetic cosmetics can cause various adverse reactions. Therefore, various herbal/herbomineral cosmetic preparations are needed to be standardized and their safety studies and systematic clinical studies also require for validation and global acceptance.

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Received on 11.12.2014 Modified on 22.12.2014

Res. J. Pharmacology & P’dynamics. 7(1): Jan.-Mar. 2015; Page 40-45

DOI: 10.5958/2321-5836.2015.00010.5